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megranate crept into my mouth。
I hunkered down on my knees and brushed my hands against the trunk。 I found what I was looking for。 The carving had dulled； almost faded altogether； but it was still there： Amir and Hassan。 The Sultans of Kabul。 I traced the curve of each letter with my fingers。 Picked small bits of bark from the tiny crevasses。
I sat cross…legged at the foot of the tree and looked south on the city of my childhood。 In those days； treetops poked behind the walls of every house。 The sky stretched wide and blue； and laundry drying on clotheslines glimmered in the sun。 If you listened hard； you might even have heard the call of the fruit seller passing through Wazir Akbar Khan with his donkey： Cherries！ Apricots！ Grapes！ In the early evening； you would have heard azan； the mueszzin s call to prayer from the mosque in Shar…e…Nau。
I heard a honk and saw Farid waving at me。 It was time to go。
WE DROVE SOUTH AGAIN； back toward Pashtunistan Square。 We passed several more red pickup trucks with armed； bearded young men crammed into the cabs。 Farid cursed under his breath every time we passed one。
I paid for a room at a small hotel near Pashtunistan Square。 Three little girls dressed in identical black dresses and white scarves clung to the slight； bespectacled man behind the counter。 He charged me 75； an unthinkable price given the run…down appearance of the place； but I didn t mind。 Exploitation to finance a beach house in Hawaii was one thing。 Doing it to feed your kids was another。
There was no hot running water and the cracked toilet didn t flush。 Just a single steel…frame bed with a worn mattress； a ragged blanket； and a wooden chair in the corner。 The window overlooking the square had broken； hadn t been replaced。 As I lowered my suitcase； I noticed a dried bloodstain on the wall behind the bed。
I gave Farid some money and he went out to get food。 He returned with four sizzling skewers of kabob； fresh _naan_； and a bowl of white rice。 We sat on the bed and all but devoured the food。 There was one thing that hadn t changed in Kabul after all：
The kabob was as succulent and delicious as I remembered。
That night； I took the bed and Farid lay on the floor； wrapped himself with an extra blanket for which the hotel owner charged me an additional fee。 No light came into the room except for the moonbeams streaming through the broken window。 Farid said the owner had told him that Kabul had been without electricity for two days now and his generator needed fixing。 We talked for a while。 He told me about growing up in Mazar…i…Sharif； in Jalalabad。 He told me about a time shortly after he and his father joined the jihad and fought the Shorawi in the Panjsher Valley。 They were stranded without food and ate locust to survive。 He told me of the day helicopter gunfire killed his father； of the day the land mine took his two daughters。 He asked me about America。 I told him that in America you could step into a grocery store and buy any of fifteen or twenty different types of cereal。 The lamb was always fresh and the milk cold； the fruit plentiful and the water